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Journeys: A Pakistani Visits India

Text and Photos by Ehtesham Hassan

June 2024

A vlogger from Pakistan recounts his memorable, week-long trip to Delhi in 2023 during the annual Urs (festival) at the tomb of Hazrat Nizamuddin, the famous Sufi saint.

[Left] Hassan at the National Museum in Delhi.

Politically strained relationships between India and Pakistan have made it tough for the people living on either side of the border to visit and experience each other’s country. But as a Pakistani, I am fortunate to have visited India and experienced our shared culture and history.

n November 2023, I came to Delhi for a week during the annual Urs (festival) at the tomb of Hazrat Nizamuddin. Our Pakistani delegation came to India by road from Lahore via the Wagah-Atari border to New Delhi.

[Right] Red Fort

We have heard and read a lot about Delhi in our books, on TV and even from our teachers. But witnessing Delhi in person by visiting the city was very special. I visited the Jama Masjid, Lal Quila (Red Fort), Connaught Place, India Gate, Rashtrapati Bhawan, Qutub Minar, National Museum, and National Rail Museum.

[Left] At the Wagah-Attari border in the Punjab provinces of India and Pakistan.

The religious diversity of Delhi was exciting for me. Hindus, Muslims, Sikhs, and Christians lived together. We don’t get to see this syncretic secular culture in Pakistan since it is a Muslim-majority country with around 96-97% Muslims. For me, as a Pakistani, it was unusual to see this kind of religious amity.

[Right] At the tomb of Hazrat Nizamuddin in Delhi during the festival.

My hotel was in Paharganj—and as you may know, it’s very crowded. The area was packed with people and very loud. So, my experience of the locality wasn’t that great. Pakistan is also very populated, but none of its cities are as populated as Delhi.

“I feel that 90% of people from India and Pakistan don’t hate each other.” Railway station in Delhi.

[Left Top] At the iconic India Gate in New Delhi.

It was a privilege for me to watch a cricket World Cup match in Delhi. The league match was played between Bangladesh and Sri Lanka.

[Right bottom] The Qutub Minar, standing tall, gave Hassan glimpses of our historical past.

I saw the match at the Firoz Shah Kotla Stadium. Every Pakistani cricket fan knows about Feroz Shah Kotla Stadium. We have seen so many of our cricket superstars who played here. It was a treat to watch the match in Delhi. The quality of the stadium was way better than what we find in Pakistan. We need to learn that from India.

Dera Ismail Khan in Pakistan is my hometown. So when I went to Delhi, I also met families who had migrated from my hometown during Partition. It was a very special and emotional moment for me. This was the top moment for me during the visit.

[Left] Watching a World Cup group stage match at the Firoz Shah Kotla Stadium.

Bainsar Bai, an Indian who had migrated from Pakistan, recalled her days in Pakistan. “People used to come from Dera Ismail Khan to my hometown, Darya Khan,” she said. “Those people used to stay on rent. At that time, the rent was only 50 paise per month, and that, too, people couldn’t afford it.”

In our conversation, she further told me about Kotla Jam, a town in Pakistan where she got married. Her father and uncles used to live in Darya Khan. “We had to leave Darya Khan. But even today, I remember everything,” Bainsar added.

I feel that 90% of people from India and Pakistan don’t hate each other. The reality is that we are similar, and we love each other. I hope the political leaders of our countries wake up and break the wall of hatred that they have created. Millions of Indians want to see Pakistan, and millions of Pakistanis want to see India.

I want to see more of India. I want to see Jaipur, Kolkata, Kerala. I hope this will be true one day.

[Right] At the home of an elderly couple who migrated from Pakistan during Partition.