IKARA dares to go regional, inventive, and upscale all at once — a sign of Atlanta’s rapidly evolving Indian dining scene.
New Indian restaurants seem to be opening all over metro Atlanta these days, but few generate much buzz beyond their own neighborhoods. Most offer a familiar version of the same menu, the same décor, the same night out. Ikara, the sophisticated newcomer, situated inside the Twelve Midtown Hotel at Atlantic Station, refuses to be slotted into that same box.
Stunning Interiors
Stepping through Ikara’s heavy wooden doors, the first thing that hits the eye is the stunning interior, at the center of which is the dramatic circular bar. Curved wooden panels rise like flower petals toward the ceiling, forming a striking focal point visible from nearly every seat.
Jali-inspired window panels are reminiscent of the intricate latticed screens of Mughal architecture. With seating for more than 200, the restaurant is divided into several spaces. Arched wooden doorways lead guests into adjoining dining areas, each with its own distinctive ambiance. One of them features an infinity-style mirrored ceiling and another accented with blue furnishings and white floral arrangements, adding warmth and color to an otherwise neutral palette.
From my green, velvet-backed chair, my eyes wandered around the expansive space. Suspended brown rope installations reminded me of fishing nets from the southern coast of India, while woven basket chandeliers evoked memories of Kerala houseboats gliding through the backwaters. The design felt more like a contemporary global lounge than a traditional Indian restaurant.
Upbeat lounge music filled the background, creating a lively atmosphere better suited to celebrations and corporate gatherings than to a quiet family dinner.
Creative Cocktails
The innovative cocktails are clearly a major part of the experience. Seated at the bar, guests can watch bartenders shake, stir, smoke, and garnish drinks with engraved ice cubes bearing the Ikara logo or crispy papad accents.
Arvind Poojari, the beverage director and restaurant manager, proudly introduced me to Chennai Central, a cocktail inspired by South India’s iconic railway hub. I was quite intrigued by his rasam-infusing technique, which balanced the sweet-and-sour profile of tomatoes with honey. Another drink, Pehli Baarish, aimed to capture the fragrance of the earth after the first monsoon rain. I found the bitterness overpowered the more delicate notes in this creative attempt. Midnight Express proved to be the strongest of the cocktails I sampled. Inspired by long train journeys across India, it was an Indian avatar of an Old Fashioned — with saf- fron, spices, Scotch, and smoked ice. The smoke tempered the coconut notes, resulting in a cocktail that felt both nostalgic and contemporary.
The Food: Regional Ambition, Mixed Execution
The restaurant’s most meaningful departure from standard Indian fare is its breadth of regional diversity, drawing dishes from Kashmir, Bihar, Rajasthan, Goa, Kerala, Himachal Pradesh, Lucknow, Delhi, and Hyderabad. How well it delivers on this ambitious promise is a question worth considering.
Having just returned from Goa earlier this year, I was eager to taste the mushroom rissois appetizer. The plate offered three crisp, breaded, deep fried patties stuffed with earthy and well-seasoned chopped mushrooms mixed with a hint of cheese, served alongside sweet pineapple and bright mint chutneys. The dudhiya kebab did not deliver the melt in your mouth promise that the Awadhi dish typically does. This one, though presented beautifully on a brass platter, had chewy, charred paneer discs sandwiching spiced potatoes and the repetitive pineapple and mint chutneys. The seekh kebab appetizer lacked the succulence that defines a memorable Lucknowi mutton kebab.
I followed my server’s recommendation and ordered the whole tandoori pomfret, which was nearly perfectly grilled with a powerful masala coating and a side of crunchy house-made matchstick potato fries. It could make for a meal on its own.
For the main course, the paneer khurchan from Delhi emerged as the surprise star of the evening. Soft cubes of paneer, lightly grilled and tossed with mustard seed-spiced onions and bell peppers, were enhanced by fresh tomatoes, which made it a light and shareable dish. I would have ordered this as an appetizer instead.
The Dal Ikara, the restaurant’s interpretation of dal makhani, delivered the rich, creamy texture I would expect, but with a subtle lemony brightness that lifted the dish. Thick, comforting, and deeply flavorful, it was a standout among the entrees. I liked that the kitchen did not dilute the spice levels for American palates and kept the flavors similar to what I would expect at restaurants in India.
My server’s high recommendations for the butter chicken did not live up to the hype. Instead of the cashew and cream-forward sauce I was used to, Ikara’s Bengali version leaned heavily into black pepper and cinnamon. While some may appreciate the departure from convention, I missed the velvety richness of North Indian-style tomato and cream gravy.
The Murgh Yakhni Biryani from Hyderabad impressed with its fragrant saffron and cardamom aromas. Served in a small round brass bowl, the boneless chicken pieces were tender in delicately saffron and cardamom seasoned rice. It was accompanied by burhani raita, dusted with garam masala and chili powder. Among the Indian breads, the onion kulcha tasted pleasantly homemade, while the naan had a crisp yet chewy texture.
Dessert ended the meal on a high note. The Shahi Tukda was my favorite. The bread retained both crispness and softness, soaking up just enough rabri without becoming soggy. Garnished generously with pistachios, almonds, and edible silver leaf, it beautifully balanced richness with texture. The Phirni, served in a traditional earthen pot, offered a lighter finish. Delicately flavored with cardamom and topped with rose petals and pistachios, it was pleasantly restrained in sweetness.
The Verdict Ikara mimics its sister restaurant in the Bay Area, called Pippal. The interior, drink, and food menus are largely similar, but what’s new in the equation is the audience. Atlanta diners have previously not been exposed to authentic Indian flavors at high price points, but this may be changing. During my visit, it was packed with desi diners who seemed to be celebrating special occasions with friends, multi-generational groups dining with their kids and families, and a few drop-ins who may have been visiting from out of town and were looking for a convenient sit-down experience within Atlantic Station.
Whether Ikara will earn the trust of repeat visitors and food critics remains to be seen. In my opinion, the dining room is visually impressive, the cocktail program is ambitious, and the menu ventures beyond the usual North Indian staples that dominate many Indian restaurants in America. It may not be the restaurant I visit when craving the most soulful Indian cooking in Atlanta, but it is certainly one I would recommend for groups, celebrations, business dinners, and anyone curious to see how Indian dining in the city continues to evolve.
Sucheta Rawal is an award-winning food and travel writer who has traveled to over 120 countries across seven continents, experienc- ing the world through her palate. She inspires people to travel more meaningfully and sustainably through her nonprofit, Go Eat Give, and her books, Beato Goes To. Find her on social @SuchetaRawal.