For BHARTI KIRCHNER, a return visit to Kolkata isn’t complete until she has made at least
one trip to the roadside chaat hawkers in Chowringhee.
Mesmerized by multitudes of aromas, I blend
in with a crowd that surrounds a food cart in Kolkata—
and watch. The muriwala’s hands dance over the
ingredients as he tosses a few things together, drizzles
a bold condiment or two over the combination, finally
finishing with a sprinkling of one or more garnishes.
An eager customer accepts the bright plate; a big
smile follows. Soon my turn comes. The jhal muri (a
combination of puffed rice, mustard oil, green chili,
lime juice, and sev noodles) teases my palate
and brings back memories of my student days.
But the showmanship and camaraderie I experience
also satisfy a longing of the soul.
(Left) Jhal muri, bought on the street, served in a paper cone.
So, what is chaat? It’s a style of cooking,
a shorthand for fast-and-fun street
food, part of a lunchtime routine for
workers in India, or any time nourishment
is required. Chaat can substitute
as a salad or hors d’oeuvre and, in a
pinch, take the place of a full meal. A
dish of chaat cools the body and is a
popular summer pastime. It can, however,
be enjoyed throughout the year.
The basic ingredients of a chaat
dish are commonplace: raw and cooked
vegetables such as boiled potatoes,
chickpeas, tomatoes, onion, and cucumber.
Or fruit such as slices of mango,
papaya, or pineapple. The condiments
might consist of cilantro chutney, tamarind
chutney, or a yogurt sauce. The
garnishing could include chopped cilantro, sweet
onion, roasted peanuts, or sev noodles. A pinch of chili
powder or chaat powder (see sidebar below) on top
completes the arrangement.
It becomes clear then that the genius of chaat
lies in the unique and artful blend of contrasting
flavors—sweet, salty, sour, or spicy—and textures—crispy, crunchy, or creamy. It also lies in the variety of
ingredients used, often dissimilar, which harmonize
to make a celebration of taste sensations. Then there
is eye-appeal, the colors and shapes of the diverse
ingredients piled high on a plate. All this for
a low price!
You can find chaat in every major city
in India and even in smaller towns.
They appear in mind-boggling varieties.
A few examples are pani puri
or golgappa (a round hollow puri
stuffed with potatoes, chickpeas,
and onion, and drizzled with a
spicy, flavored water, which is
quickly popped into one’s mouth);
pakoras or bhajias (battered and
deep-fried vegetable fritters served
with tamarind chutney); dahi vada
(fried urad dal dumplings soaked in a
yogurt sauce and accompanied by a green
cilantro chutney).
Of late, chaat houses have opened in
many U.S. cities as well. You can, however,
easily prepare chaat at home. (See recipe below).
CHAAT TIPS
• Chaat fixings can be
prepared ahead of time
and refrigerated. To
fully release the flavors,
bring them to
room temperature
and assemble
them just
before serving.
• Juicy vegetables
such as
cucumber and
tomato are traditionally
favored
as they contribute
flavor to the dressing
as well as create a
cooling effect.
(Left) An example of a chaat combination with papri on the bottom, sev on top, and various tasty ingredients between.
• You can put together
your own chaat combination, remembering
that contrasting flavors and textures are
your only guidelines. Minced fresh chili peppers add
crunch and a piquant zest to a chickpea chaat. Lime
juice and ground red pepper bring a tart-hot taste to
sweet papayas. For a layered look, consider scattering
sev—fine, crispy noodles made of chick pea flour—on
top for added texture and a delightful nutty flavor. You
can place papri (deep-fried, crisp pastry rounds) on the
bottom. Corn chips can be a substitute for either.
YOUR CHAAT PANTRY
A sampling of spices you might wish to store in your pantry. All are available in Indian grocery stores.
Asafetida (hing) powder – A pungent powder with
a strong garlicky smell, asafetida is the dried gum
resin of a plant. Often used as a substitute for onion
and garlic.
Black salt – This rock salt from India with an earthy
flavor is not black, but pinkish gray. Even a small sprinkle
of it adds a distinctive taste to dishes. Don’t omit or
substitute with regular salt.
Cumin – Yellowish brown cumin seeds resemble
caraway. Ground cumin is used in preparing chaat powder
or as a final garnish. For best results, buy cumin as
whole seeds, and then prepare them as follows. Place
the seeds in a skillet over medium low heat and stir
frequently. In a few minutes they will turn medium
brown and emit an aroma. Remove from the heat immediately.
Grind them to a powder using a spice grinder
or a mortar and pestle.
Lime juice – Considered more flavorful than lemon
juice, lime juice is most commonly used as the base for
a chaat dressing.
Mango powder or amchoor – Made from dried, unripe
mangoes, this brown powder adds a pleasant tartness
to dishes.
Mustard Seeds – Black or brown mustard seeds are
smaller than the more common yellow variety. Sauté
them in a little oil until they pop, then add to the
finished salad.
Tamarind – The dried pulp of the fruit of the tamarind
tree adds a complex sourness to chaat. Tamarind
concentrate is available in jars in Indian food shops.
Yogurt – A mixture of yogurt and spices is often
used as a topping sauce for chaat.
Chaat Powder – Commercial chaat powder is sold in
Indian food shops and varies widely, but it can be made
at home by following these instructions. Combine 1/4
teaspoon each of ground cumin, ground dried ginger,
black salt, 1/8 teaspoon each of asafetida and freshly
ground black pepper, a dash of red pepper, and 2 teaspoons
mango powder. Thoroughly blend the mixture
to a fine powder using a spice grinder or mortar and
pestle. Adjust the mixture to your taste by adding more
of each individual ingredient.
RECIPE
Chaat-Style Tangy Potato Salad
Perfect for those concerned with the fat content of most potato salads, here potatoes are steeped in a fat-free lime dressing, and then tossed with a mixture of chili, cilantro, and ginger root. The result is a tangy blend of diverse yet complementary flavors.
Makes 3 to 4 servings
1/4 cup coarsely chopped cilantro (leaves only)
1 jalapeño, cored, seeded, and minced (or to taste)
8 to 10 fresh mint leaves
1 tablespoon peeled, coarsely chopped ginger root
Dash of sugar
1 1/2 pounds potatoes, peeled, cut into 1 1/2-inch cubes
1/4 cup freshly squeezed lime juice
1/2 teaspoon chaat powder (recipe above)
1/2 teaspoon salt or to taste
Process cilantro, jalapeño, mint, and ginger root in a food processor until a smooth paste forms. Set aside.
Steam or boil potatoes until they can be pierced easily with a fork, 15 to 20 minutes. Meanwhile, place lime juice, chaat powder, and salt in a large bowl
and mix well.
When the potatoes are ready, transfer them to the bowl and toss gently to coat each piece. The potatoes will absorb the juice. Now add the herb paste and
gently toss again. Taste and adjust salt.
Best served immediately. Can also be chilled for 30 minutes and served cold.
As a cookbook author, Bharti Kirchner focuses on vegetarian cuisine. Her novels include Shiva Dancing, Darjeeling, Sharmila’s Book, Pastries, and Goddess of Fire. The Seattle-based writer’s mystery novels are titled Tulip Season and Season of Sacrifice.