South Korea and Japan are popular tourist destinations in East Asia. Taiwan is an overlooked gem.
The island of Taiwan is blessed with beaches and mountains, besieged by typhoons and earthquakes, and dotted with hot springs arising from volcanic activity. Our visit began in the capital Taipei on a wet morning. Armed with brochures, umbrellas, and comfy shoes, we made our way to the main transit station. Being used to Singapore’s efficient public transport system, we decided to explore Taipei using its extensive MRT network with a three-day unlimited pass.
Our first stop was the National Palace Museum, accessible by a short bus ride from the Shilin station. A formidable structure, designed as a Northern Chinese Palace, it has an impressive green roof and imposing steps going up to the entrance. The well-curated museum has a large collection of treasures on three well organized levels and includes items made from ancient bronze, ceramics, jade, as well as calligraphy scrolls, rare books, and other ornamental pieces. We made our way through interactive exhibits showing the use of bows and arrows, and thoughtfully curated galleries with exquisite jade carvings and ceramic vases.
Then we went to Beitou, outside Taipei, where public bath houses and private resorts offer a variety of options to soak in the refreshing warm waters. While some operate like Japanese onsens, other places provide robes and towels and require swimsuits for soaking. On a friend’s recommendation, we spent the evening at Hotel Grand View, rejuvenating in the warm spring water as the night swooped in after an early sunset at 5:15 p.m.—the perfect end to a wet day.
On an overcast day we visited the Chiang Kai-shek Memorial, erected in memory of the former president of Taiwan (aka Republic of China). A major cultural landmark, the memorial is set amidst landscaped gardens, with the majestic white building set atop a wide base and capped with a dark blue octagonal roof. The building hosts a museum depicting Chiang Kaishek’s life and Taiwan’s history. The main hall at the top has a huge statue of Chiang Kai-shek and inscriptions that translate to “Ethics, Democracy, Science.” The inside of the domed roof features a beautiful emblem which also appears on Taiwan’s flag, representing the sun with twelve rays.
Not far from the memorial is the Longsham Temple, one of the oldest and most respected Buddhist temples in active use. On a weekday morning, the temple buzzed with tourists and devotees. The atmosphere was a feast for the senses, with tables filled with flowers and a variety of offerings. The air was thick with the deep hum of collective chanting of prayers. There were colorful motifs, lanterns, and unbelievably beautiful orchid offerings everywhere you turned.
Next, from the Xiangshan station, we undertook the Elephant Mountain (Xiangshan) hike. A steep climb featuring stairs of different heights and levels of difficulty, it took us through various lookouts offering views of the city. The most anticipated one was the view of Taipei 101, the tallest structure in Taipei, which at one time was the world’s tallest building. The visibility was not great but the trail allowed good panoramic views of the city skyline as well as the mountains in the distance, a winsome feature of Taipei. We could see the city lights on our way down.
The next morning we joined a fairly large group of tourists from various countries for the free walking tour of Taipei Old Town, which included the 228 Peace Park and ended at the Red House. Our guide, Ale, was an energetic and friendly young Colombian woman who had been living in Taipei for over six years. She explained the complicated history of Taiwan in a way that made it easy for us to understand, using facts, anecdotes, and her understanding of the various interpretations she had encountered as a resident.
Called Formosa (Beautiful Island) by the Portuguese, Taiwan became a Japanese territory and later hosted those fleeing China. Given the waves of colonization and fight for liberation, it hasn’t been easy for subsequent generations, both within Taiwan and in the diaspora. Yet it is a tech powerhouse, was once famous for supplying the bulk of the world’s umbrellas, and holds tremendous soft power, especially as it relates to its delicious dumplings and the well-known Din Tai Fung chain The original restaurant only does takeaway orders now, while the dine-in location, across from Daan Park a few blocks away, has a minimum wait time of one hour on a slow weekday afternoon. My options as a vegetarian were limited, but I enjoyed the fried rice and veg dumplings, especially the ones filled with hot chocolate sauce!
Our evening had been planned well in advance. We had to reach the lobby of Taipei’s most famous landmark, Taipei 101, at 7 p.m. Instead of paying for the observatory tickets, our generous friend had booked us a table at Diamond Tony’s, an Italian restaurant on the 85th floor. The ultrafast elevator took us to the top in a jiffy. The entire city was lit up and the restaurant offered brilliant views from its panoramic windows. The set meal featuring several courses, including an all-vegetarian option, was sumptuous and ended with melt-in-the- mouth macarons.
On the last full day we booked a taxi and headed out of Taipei towards the coast. The first stop was at Shifen in Pingxi district, famous for its sky lanterns. The quaint Insta-worthy street leading downhill to the train tracks featured souvenir and coffee shops. Groups of tourists bought lanterns made of colorful paper and wrote their wishes with thick markers, and then lit the lanterns before releasing them. Just the act of expressing good wishes made both the senders and observers happy despite the intermittent morning drizzle.
Around midday we reached the town of Jioufen in Ruifang district, perched atop a hill with expansive views of the ocean. The market had a fun vibe with shops situated across each other along a curving narrow street that hugged the hillside. From leather articles to flavored wines, handmade gifts to the ubiquitous nougat, it was an interesting experience to taste samples and check out local products. Avoiding the beach on a wet afternoon, we took a detour to Houtong Cat Village. Once known for its coal mining industry, the deserted village is now home to many cats lounging at various spots along the riverbank, between buildings, and underneath benches, enjoying the attention of tourists. But the sleepy neighborhood beside a railroad track with shops selling cat-themed merchandise felt like a wasted excursion.
The Taipei map lists night markets at various locations and we decided to visit the one at Shilin. On a weeknight, stalls with games offering stuffed toy prizes didn’t have many takers. While the food stalls served local street delicacies, the ambience was not too inviting. In contrast, the bustle of Yongkang Street, located across from our hotel, had a welcoming vibe and we spent some time in the smaller stores selling umbrellas, socks, and crystals. Dihua Street was also good for local merchandise and a pleasant shopping experience. The best market, however, was the Jianguo Holiday Flower Market, which is a parking lot transformed into a buzzing weekend bazaar for seasonal flowers (orchids), fruits, vegetables, herbs, plants, and garden decor. There were even lectures on gardening techniques. It was as close to a local experience that a tourist could have. After an impulsive purchase of jade jewelry, we headed to the airport in a taxi. Our visit was too short, but I’m sure I’ll return to explore the rest of the country.
Ranjani Rao is the author of Rewriting My Happily Ever After: A Memoir of Divorce and Discovery and The Coherent Writer newsletter. Email: letters@khabar.com